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The Trick To Dealing With Cutworms At Your Paterson Home

You planted healthy seedlings, and the next morning a few are lying on the ground, cut clean at the base. That's the classic sign of cutworms. Here's how they work, how to catch them and the simple trick that protects your plants.

Quick Answer

✓ Cutworms are moth caterpillars that hide in the soil by day and chew through young stems at night.

✓ The giveaway is a seedling or transplant cut off at or just below the soil line.

✓ They curl into a tight C shape when you dig them up.

✓ The trick is a simple collar around each stem, plus clean beds and a quick nighttime check.

Gardeners in Paterson who start tomatoes, peppers or beans in spring sometimes walk out to find a seedling lying flat, cut clean through at the soil line. Nothing else in the bed looks touched. That's the calling card of cutworms. They're a garden problem, not a household one, and most of the fix is simple and hands-on. Below, we'll explain how cutworms work, how to confirm them and the trick that stops the damage. If you're dealing with several pests around the yard at once, our outdoor pest control team can start with an inspection.

Illustration of a cutworm curled in the soil beside a seedling protected by a cardboard collar A simple collar protects the stem; unprotected seedlings get cut at the base ECOFUSION PEST CONTROL
Illustration of a cutworm curled in the soil beside a seedling protected by a cardboard collar

What Cutworms Are

Cutworms aren't worms. They're the caterpillars of several kinds of night-flying moths. Different species behave a little differently, but the ones gardeners notice share the same habit: they hide just under the soil surface or under garden debris during the day and come up at night to feed.

Young transplants and seedlings are their favorite targets because the stems are soft and easy to chew through. A single cutworm can move along a row and cut down several plants in one night. They often eat only a small part of the plant and leave the rest lying on the ground, which is what makes the damage so frustrating.

Why They Show Up In Your Garden

Cutworm moths lay eggs on weeds, grass and plant debris. Beds that were weedy or grassy the season before, or that sit next to a lawn edge, give the caterpillars a head start. Some species spend the winter in the soil as partly grown caterpillars, so they're already there, hungry, when you set out your first transplants in spring. That's why damage tends to be worst early in the season, when plants are small and tender.

How To Identify Cutworms

Most cutworms are smooth, plump caterpillars, up to about two inches long when full grown. They come in dull shades of gray, brown or nearly black, sometimes with faint stripes or spots. The best clue is behavior: when you dig one up, it curls tightly into a "C" shape.

Signs that point to cutworms:

  • Seedlings or transplants cut off at or just below the soil line, often overnight.
  • Damage that moves along a row, a few plants at a time.
  • Small holes or chewed leaves on low-growing plants, especially near the soil.
  • A curled gray or brown caterpillar in the top inch or two of soil next to a cut plant.

Are Cutworms Harmful?

Cutworms don't bite people, don't come indoors and don't damage your home. The harm is to your garden. Once a young plant is cut at the base, it won't recover, so a few nights of feeding can set back a spring planting. Larger, established plants with thicker stems are much less likely to be cut down. Some cutworms can also chew small spots in lawns, but in home gardens the main concern is seedlings and transplants.

The Trick: Collars And A Few Simple Habits

Cutworms work at ground level, so the easiest fix is to put a barrier at ground level. Here's what helps most:

  1. Collar every transplant. Slip a short tube of cardboard, stiff paper or a cut plastic cup around each stem when you plant. Push it an inch or so into the soil and leave a couple of inches above ground. Cutworms can't reach the stem.
  2. Clean up before planting. Remove weeds, grass and plant debris from beds a couple of weeks before you plant. That takes away food and egg-laying sites.
  3. Turn the soil. Working the soil before planting exposes hiding caterpillars to birds and the weather.
  4. Hand-pick at night. Go out after dark with a flashlight and check around the base of your plants. Pick off any caterpillars you find.
  5. Dig near cut plants. In the morning, gently scrape the soil around a freshly cut seedling. The cutworm is usually still close by.
  6. Plant a little later or bigger. Sturdier transplants with thicker stems hold up better than tiny seedlings.

The same habits help with other garden pests. If you're also seeing bugs on squash or tomatoes later in the season, our guide to leaf-footed bugs vs. squash bugs explains how to tell them apart.

When To Call A Professional

For most home gardens, collars and hand-picking are enough. Call for help if you can't figure out what's cutting or chewing your plants, if damage keeps spreading despite collars, or if you're seeing pest activity around your foundation as well as in the garden. EcoFusion technicians can inspect your yard, identify what you're dealing with and explain whether our preventative pest control is a good fit or whether a garden or lawn care specialist is the better call.

Cutworms are sneaky, but they're not hard to beat once you know their habits. Collar your transplants, clean up the beds, check at night and dig around any cut stems. With those steps, your Paterson garden has a much better shot at making it through spring. If you'd like a second set of eyes, EcoFusion Pest Control is happy to help.

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